envknob: support changing envknobs post-init

Updates #5114

Change-Id: Ia423fc7486e1b3f3180a26308278be0086fae49b
Signed-off-by: Brad Fitzpatrick <bradfitz@tailscale.com>
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Internal Server Error - Gitea: Git with a cup of tea
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Gitea Version: 1.28.0+dev-477-g8b6ad49a5f