all: depend on zstd unconditionally, remove plumbing to make it optional

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All platforms use it at this point, including iOS which was the
original hold out for memory reasons. No more reason to make it
optional.

Updates #9332

Change-Id: I743fbc2f370921a852fbcebf4eb9821e2bdd3086
Signed-off-by: Brad Fitzpatrick <bradfitz@tailscale.com>

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