ipnlocal: try ACME TLS-ALPN for Funnel renewals

Use TLS-ALPN-01 for Funnel certificate renewals only when the node
already has a cached certificate, and fall back to DNS-01 with a fresh
order if the ALPN path is unavailable or fails.

Dynamically advertise acme-tls/1 only while an ACME challenge
certificate is pending, and add client metrics for DNS-01 and
TLS-ALPN-01 start/success/failure paths.

Updates tailscale/corp#41736
Fixes tailscale/corp#42320

Change-Id: I5adc6ea129237f9ef592f84fc1a8953c80bc9d5c
Signed-off-by: Brad Fitzpatrick <bradfitz@tailscale.com>
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