portal: Add the ability to unset environment variables

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This is really just syntactic sugar for running `env -u VAR ... COMMAND`,
but env(1) is inconvenient when the form of the COMMAND is not known:
if the COMMAND might contain an equals sign, you end up having to run
`env -u VAR sh -c 'exec "$@"' sh COMMAND`. Let's make this simpler.

This follows up from GHSA-4ppf-fxf6-vxg2 to fix an issue that I noticed
while resolving that vulnerability, but is not required for fixing the
vulnerability.

Signed-off-by: Simon McVittie <smcv@collabora.com>

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